Making charges are the fees jewellers add on top of the gold value to cover the cost of crafting a piece. In 22kt jewellery, making charges range from 8 to 30 percent. In 18kt jewellery, they range from 15 to 30 percent. In 9kt jewellery, making charges look higher at 40 to 50 percent. But when you look at the actual rupee amount you are paying, the making charges for 9kt gold jewellery are often similar to or lower than those for 18kt or 22kt pieces. This guide explains exactly how making charges work, why the percentage can be misleading, and why 9kt solid gold made with strong alloys is still the smarter and more affordable choice.
When people compare gold jewellery, they often get confused by making charges. A jeweller tells you the making charge is 45 percent and it sounds very high. But that number alone does not tell the full story.
To understand whether you are getting a good deal, you need to look at the actual rupee amount you are paying in making charges, not just the percentage. This guide breaks it all down in simple, clear terms.
What Are Making Charges
Making charges are the cost of turning raw gold into a finished piece of jewellery. They cover the skill of the craftsman, the time taken to design and shape the piece, and any tools or finishing work involved.
Making charges are usually calculated as a percentage of the gold value in the piece. This is where things can get confusing, especially when comparing 9kt and 18kt or 22kt gold jewellery.
How Making Charges Work in 18kt and 22kt Gold
Higher purity gold like 18kt and 22kt contains more pure gold per gram. This means the gold value in the piece is already very high. Because the base gold value is high, jewellers typically charge a lower percentage as making charges — usually between 8 and 30 percent for 22kt gold, and between 15 and 30 percent for 18kt gold.
This percentage sounds reasonable. But the actual rupee amount can be very large because it is applied to a high gold value.
How Making Charges Work in 9kt Gold
9kt gold made with strong alloys contains 37.5 percent pure gold. The remaining 62.5 percent is strong alloys like copper, silver, and zinc. Because the gold content is lower, the base gold value in the piece is much lower too.
Jewellers charge a higher percentage as making charges for 9kt gold, usually between 40 and 50 percent. This sounds alarming when you first hear it. But the actual rupee amount of making charges is similar to or even lower than what you pay for 18kt or 22kt jewellery.
A Clear Example: 10 Gram Chain in 18kt vs 9kt Gold
Let us take a 10 gram chain and compare the total cost in 18kt and 9kt gold side by side. The gold rate used here is Rs 14,500 per gram of pure gold for illustration purposes. This rate changes daily, so check the current market rate before buying.
18kt Gold Chain: 10 Grams
18kt gold has 75 percent pure gold. So a 10 gram 18kt chain contains 7.5 grams of pure gold.
|
Component |
Calculation |
Amount |
|
Net gold weight |
75% of 10g |
7.5 grams |
|
Gold value |
7.5g x Rs 14,500 |
Rs 1,08,750 |
|
Making charges at 30% |
30% of Rs 1,08,750 |
Rs 32,625 |
|
Total before GST |
Rs 1,41,375 |
|
|
GST at 3% |
3% of Rs 1,41,375 |
Rs 4,241 |
|
Grand Total |
Rs 1,45,616 |
9kt Gold Chain: 10 Grams
9kt gold has 37.5 percent pure gold. So a 10 gram 9kt chain contains 3.75 grams of pure gold.
|
Component |
Calculation |
Amount |
|
Net gold weight |
37.5% of 10g |
3.75 grams |
|
Gold value |
3.75g x Rs 14,500 |
Rs 54,375 |
|
Making charges at 40% |
40% of Rs 54,375 |
Rs 21,750 |
|
Total before GST |
Rs 76,125 |
|
|
GST at 3% |
3% of Rs 76,125 |
Rs 2,284 |
|
Grand Total |
Rs 78,409 |
What This Comparison Shows
|
18kt Gold Chain |
9kt Gold Chain |
|
|
Gross weight |
10 grams |
10 grams |
|
Net gold weight |
7.5 grams |
3.75 grams |
|
Gold value |
Rs 1,08,750 |
Rs 54,375 |
|
Making charges |
Rs 32,625 |
Rs 21,750 |
|
Making charge percentage |
30% |
40% |
|
Grand Total |
Rs 1,45,616 |
Rs 78,409 |
The making charge percentage for 9kt gold looks higher at 40 percent. But the actual making charge in rupees is Rs 21,750, which is significantly lower than the Rs 32,625 you pay for the 18kt chain. The percentage is misleading because it is applied to a much smaller gold base.
You are saving over Rs 67,000 on the same weight of jewellery just by choosing 9kt gold. And you are still paying for real, solid gold made with strong alloys that is durable and scratch resistant for daily wear.
Why Does Making Charge Percentage Look Higher for 9kt
The reason is simple. Making charges cover the cost of the craftsman's work. A 10 gram chain takes a similar amount of time and skill to make regardless of whether it is 9kt or 18kt gold. The labour cost is roughly the same.
But because the gold value in a 9kt chain is much lower, the same labour cost becomes a higher percentage of that lower gold value. If you apply Rs 21,750 to a base of Rs 54,375, it looks like 40 percent. If you apply Rs 32,625 to a base of Rs 1,08,750, it looks like 30 percent.
The percentage looks different. The actual work and cost are similar.
What to Check on Your BIS Hallmark Certificate
Every piece of hallmarked gold jewellery in India comes with a BIS hallmark and a price breakup. Before paying for any piece, check these two numbers carefully.
Net Weight vs Gross Weight
Gross weight is the total weight of the piece including any stones, settings, or clasps.
Net weight or net fine weight is the weight of the gold only. This is also called fine weight on some certificates.
You should always be paying the gold rate on the net fine weight, not the gross weight. The difference between gross and net weight matters because you are not paying for stones or settings at the gold rate.
Always ask the jeweller to show you both numbers separately. On your BIS hallmark price card, you should be able to see:
The gold rate per gram, the net fine gold weight, the gold value, the making charges separately stated, and the GST applied on the subtotal.
At Carrots Jewellery, every piece comes with a clear price breakup showing the gold rate per gram, net fine weight, gross weight, making charges, and GST separately. Nothing is hidden. You can verify what you are paying for before you buy.
What a Transparent Price Card Looks Like
Here is an example of what a clear price card should show, based on the format used by Carrots Jewellery.
|
Detail |
Information |
|
Gold purity |
9kt (375 fineness) |
|
Gold rate per gram |
Rs 5,584 per gram (example rate, check current rate) |
|
Net fine weight |
Weight of pure gold only |
|
Gross weight |
Total weight of piece |
|
Gold value |
Rate x net fine weight |
|
Making charges |
Stated separately in rupees |
|
Subtotal |
Gold value plus making charges |
|
GST at 3% |
Applied on subtotal |
|
Grand total |
Final price you pay |
If a jeweller cannot show you this breakdown clearly, ask for it. If they refuse, that is a red flag.
How to Verify the BIS Hallmark
Every BIS hallmarked piece carries a HUID number, which is a six digit unique code. You can verify this code on the BIS Care app on your phone. This gives you government backed confirmation that the gold purity is exactly what is stated on the piece.
From July 2025, 9kt gold has been officially included in India's mandatory BIS hallmarking system with a fineness of 375. This means every 9kt piece must carry a BIS hallmark by law, just like 18kt and 22kt pieces.
Why 9kt Gold Still Makes More Financial Sense
After looking at the numbers, here is what matters most.
For the same gross weight, 9kt gold jewellery costs significantly less than 18kt or 22kt jewellery. The making charge percentage looks higher but the rupee amount is similar or lower.
You are getting real, BIS hallmarked gold that is durable and scratch resistant because of its strong alloys. And you are keeping more money in your pocket.
If budget matters to you, or if you want jewellery you can wear every day without worrying about the cost of damage or loss, 9kt gold jewellery made with strong alloys is the smartest choice.
Making Charges Comparison at a Glance
|
Gold Type |
Purity |
Making Charge % |
Making Amount (10g, Rs 14,500 rate) |
Total Price |
|
22kt |
91.6% |
8 to 30% |
Rs 10,626 to Rs 39,846 |
Rs 1,47,749 to Rs 1,77,846 |
|
18kt |
75% |
15 to 30% |
Rs 16,313 to Rs 32,625 |
Rs 1,28,815 to Rs 1,45,616 |
|
9kt |
37.5% |
40 to 50% |
Rs 21,750 to Rs 27,188 |
Rs 76,125 to Rs 81,563 |
The making amount in rupees across all three gold types can overlap considerably, especially at the lower end of the 22kt and 18kt ranges. The big difference is in the gold value you are paying for, not the making charges.
Note: all figures above use a sample gold rate of Rs 14,500 per gram of pure gold for illustration only. Actual rates change daily.
Why Carrots Jewellery Is Built on Transparent Pricing
At Carrots Jewellery, we believe you should know exactly what you are paying for. Every piece in our 9kt gold collection comes with a full price breakup showing the gold rate, net fine weight, gross weight, making charges, and GST separately. Every piece is BIS hallmarked with a HUID number you can verify yourself.
We use strong alloys in our 9kt gold to make every piece durable and scratch resistant for daily wear. And because we sell directly to you with no showroom costs or middleman margins, you get real hallmarked gold at honest prices.
Explore our best sellers collection and check the price breakup on any product page to see exactly how we price our jewellery.
Conclusion
Making charges can look confusing when expressed as a percentage. A 40 to 50 percent making charge on 9kt gold sounds high compared to 8 to 30 percent on 22kt gold or 15 to 30 percent on 18kt gold. But when you look at the actual rupee amount, the making charges are similar or lower for 9kt gold because the gold base value is much smaller.
The total price of 9kt gold jewellery is significantly more affordable than 18kt or 22kt, even for the same gross weight. And because 9kt gold is made with strong alloys, it is more durable and scratch resistant, making it the best choice for daily wear.
Always check the BIS hallmark, verify the HUID on the BIS Care app, and ask to see the net fine weight separately from the gross weight before you buy. At Carrots Jewellery, all of this is already shown clearly on every product page.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are making charges in gold jewellery?
Making charges are the fees charged to cover the cost of crafting raw gold into a finished piece. They include the cost of the craftsman's skill, time, and tools used to make the jewellery.
Why are making charges higher for 9kt gold?
The making charge percentage is higher for 9kt gold because it is applied to a lower gold base value. The actual rupee amount of making charges is similar to or lower than what you pay for 18kt or 22kt jewellery.
Is 9kt gold more affordable than 18kt gold even with higher making charges?
Yes. Even with a 40 to 50 percent making charge, a 9kt gold piece costs significantly less than an 18kt or 22kt piece of the same weight because the gold content and gold value are much lower.
What is the difference between gross weight and net weight in gold jewellery?
Gross weight is the total weight of the piece including stones and settings. Net weight is the weight of the gold only. You should pay the gold rate on net weight, not gross weight.
What is a HUID number on a BIS hallmark?
A HUID is a six digit unique code stamped on every BIS hallmarked piece of gold jewellery in India. You can verify it on the BIS Care app to confirm the gold purity is exactly as stated.
Is 9kt gold BIS hallmarked in India?
Yes. From July 2025, 9kt gold is officially included in India's mandatory BIS hallmarking system at a fineness of 375. Every Carrots Jewellery piece is BIS hallmarked, even those under 2 grams.
How do I check if a jeweller is being transparent about making charges?
Ask for a written price breakup showing the gold rate per gram, net fine weight, gross weight, making charges, and GST separately. Every Carrots Jewellery product page shows this breakdown clearly.
Does Carrots Jewellery show making charges separately?
Yes. Every piece at Carrots Jewellery comes with a full price breakup showing gold rate, net fine weight, gross weight, making charges, and GST as separate line items.
Why is the making amount in rupees similar for 9kt and 18kt gold?
The making charge covers the craftsman's labour, which is roughly the same for both. Because 9kt gold has a lower gold base value, the same labour cost becomes a higher percentage. But in rupees, the making amount is similar or lower for 9kt.
What is the best gold to buy for daily wear in India?
9kt solid gold made with strong alloys is the best choice for daily wear. It is durable, scratch resistant, BIS hallmarked, and significantly more affordable than 18kt or 22kt gold.

